Mujaddara - A Personal and Cultural Connection

Mujaddara is a Lebanese dish that has been passed down between generations within my family. Curious about where this dish originated, I interviewed my mother on its personal and cultural history. According to her, she learned the recipe from her mother (my grandmother), who learned it from her mother-in-law (my great grandmother). My great grandmother came over from Lebanon in the early 1900's. She gave birth to 5 sons, and unfortunately lost her husband during the Great Depression. One of the reasons why this dish is so important to me is its role in my great-grandmothers life. Made up of olive oil, rice, lentils, caramelized onions, salt, pepper, and cumin, this dish is very nutritionally dense, but also inexpensive to make. During the Depression, my grandfather and his brothers used to hunt for wild game, such as squirrels or deer, to be eaten with this dish. It does not require short-term refrigeration, and can be stored for weeks before it becomes inedible. Therefore, it can be easily transported between the home and the workplace, even in the hot climate of Lebanon. For my great grandmother, mujaddara was not just a cheap food: it was a way to connect with her culture while simultaneously providing for her sons. To her as well as other Lebanese women, providing a nutritious meal for her family meant that she was a good mother. What this dish allowed her to do for her family as well as herself not only reflects its meaning in Lebanese culture, but it's importance to my family and my own cultural history. 

In Lebanese culture, the mother assumes the position of the provider, and the quality of her food reflects her "quality" as a mother. Reflecting on that, mujaddara, although seemingly simple, is prepared with great care. First, the onions must be thinly sliced and caramelized in the olive oil. Then, the lentils must be washed, and the bad lentils picked out and thrown away. The caramelized onions must be removed from the oil, and the lentils put into that same oil. This step is very important. In Lebanese culture, it is important that all the nutrients be saved. Therefore, Mujaddara is never drained, and nutrients and flavor never lost. The quality of the dish is defined by how much flavor the final product retains. The ratio of lentils to rice should be 2:1, and the final product should be overall soft, yet still retain a semi-firm texture, smelling strongly of cumin and softly of olive oil. 

In Lebanon, mujaddara serves as a staple food, with my mother comparing it "to bread and butter" here in the U.S. In roughly 1200AD, it used to be considered the "peasants comfort food," and often served among those in poverty. (Abbot and West) Now, it is considered to be a comfort food eaten across all classes, for all occasions. Since it is such a simple dish, it has been varied across generations within my own family. My grandmother, a native of Italy, uses less cumin and more olive oil, and my mother adds Italian sausage and chicken broth. In Lebanon, however, the dish is often cooked with different types of meats, and served with yogurt, vegetables, or both.

Mujaddara will always symbolize family to me. Passed between mothers, it has served as a connection to one of my native cultures, a symbol for love, a symbol for poverty, and a means of salvation. The traditional dish will remain a comfort to not only my family members, and myself but to those who eat it every day. It’s not just the food that defines the flavor; it’s also the culture behind it.

Sources:

Picture: http://college.biggirlssmallkitchen.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/Mujaddara-2.jpg

http://www.abbottandwest.com/edible-history-mujadara/