I am the pickiest 28
year old eater you will ever meet. If I could live off of Starbucks, Chik Fil
A, and cupcakes life would be perfect. When I started looking at the list of
suggested foods for this assignment I think I said “ewww” out loud to the vast
majority of them.
I began thinking about
other options. I started to think about foods synonymous with Pittsburgh. The
first thing that comes to mind is a Primanti’s sandwich. Unfortunately, the
only thing I have ever had from Primanti’s is the chicken tenders so it
probably wasn’t my best choice. Plus, it
would be tricky and expensive to get 40 Primanti’s sandwiches to class for the
pot luck. The next thing that came to mind was cookie tables. Pittsburgh and
cookie tables go together like peanut butter and jelly. They have been written
about in the New York Times and Bon Appetit. It used to be primarily a wedding
tradition, but in more recent years it has become a tradition at bridal
showers, baby showers, Christmas parties, and graduation parties. I had a
cookie table at my high school graduation party!
The exact origin of
the Pittsburgh cookie table is not known. Most people give credit to Italians
and Eastern Europeans who created the tradition out of necessity. The amount of
sugar and flower needed to make a wedding cake to serve a large crowd was much
more expensive than the amount of sugar and flour needed to bake cookies. Also,
it allowed other family members to be involved with a part of the wedding.
Mothers, grandmothers, and aunts could all bake their special cookies for the
occasion. Today, it is no longer done out of necessity, but to carry on the
tradition started years ago.
Many cookie tables
include a variety of Italian cookie recipes like Pesche Dolci, Gravioli, Nacatole,
and Pizzelles. The cookie tables I grew up with are full of more common cookies
like Chocolate Chip, Thumbprints, Peanut Butter cookies, Buckeyes, and Wedding
Cake Cookies. Since it would be impossible for me to write about every cookie
included in a traditional Pittsburgh cookie table I am going to talk about my
absolute favorite cookie of all time, the lady lock. For those not familiar
with this sweet treat, they are a delicious, light, flaky pastry style cookie
filled with whipped cream. I could easily eat a dozen at one sitting. It is one
of my favorite wastes of calories!
Lady Locks are also
sometimes called clothespin cookies or cream horns. They originated in Eastern
European countries like Poland and Germany. They have become a very popular cookie
in the western Pennsylvania area because so many people from Poland and Germany
emigrated to southwestern Pennsylvania.
Lady locks are sometimes compared to the popular Italian pastry called a
cannoli, but they are two very different desserts with different recipes. cannolis
remind me of cream filled donuts; a Lady
Lock is most definitely a cookie. They were originally baked using wooden
clothespins as forms, but over the ears different methods have developed.
Though the dough is relative easy to make (recipes
vary, but generally 5 – 8 ingredients), the process from start to finish is
labor intensive. They have to be baked either around a special metal form you
can purchase from a kitchen supply store like Sur La Table, wooden clothespins
wrapped in tin foil, or just tin foil shaped into a small rod-like shape. After
you roll out the dough, you cut it into strips and wrap it around the form
method of your choice from the list above. Then you bake them, let them cool,
and fill them with homemade buttercream icing. My mother makes these cookies
every year for Christmas. It is an all-day event.
Below is my mother’s recipe:
Shells
1 lb. can of regular
Crisco
3 cups of flour
2 egg yolks
1 ½ cups of cold water
2 tbsp. of granulated sugar
A pinch of salt
Filling
1 cup of whole milk
½ cup of granulated sugar
1 stick of unsalted butter (softened)
1 cup of regular Crisco
1 ½ tsp. of Vanilla
2 cups of whipping cream
The nutritional value
of a lady lock is minimal. They are a
guilty pleasure associated with times of celebration and happiness. You couldn’t live on lady locks, but they
make special occasions, truly special.
Great to read about another local tradition! I wonder if cookie tables were common among East European immigrant communities in other parts of the States.
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